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BREEDING TO GET AHEAD
17/12/2025
The end of the year is approaching again. The breeding pigeons are usually already through their molt, and then we can start thinking about the next season. A good preparation is essential for this.
A strong start is crucial for the success of later. First and foremost, the key is to get the breeding pigeons into optimal condition. The start of the breeding period is truly the most important part of a new pigeon season. Are the breeders in top condition? Then the rest of the breeding period will go smoothly. Are they not yet in peak condition? And you plan to breed anyway? Then it is often a whole year of problems with the young pigeons. Top-quality breeding is the foundation for healthy young pigeons. And that makes all the difference between struggling and thriving.
It is also important to know the best way to pair the breeding pigeons. This in itself is a science. If you doubt your own knowledge, consider acquiring the e-book “The Art of Breeding” by Steven van Breemen. It will give you much more insight to make progress during the breeding season.
Quality of Pigeon Feed
At the time of writing, it is exhibition season. Every year, you see the offers of cheap pigeon feed at the stands and also in pigeon magazines. And I understand that too — if you breed many young pigeons, it’s an expensive time of the year. However, the question is whether this really helps you progress. If we want better results than in previous years, shouldn’t we choose perfectly balanced feed instead? And breed fewer young pigeons? Poorly balanced feed often causes breeding pigeons to gain too much weight, which significantly hinders their overall condition. This doesn’t just affect the breeders; the young pigeons also suffer.
Yes… the general opinion is that there are no poor-quality feeds on the market anymore. I must note, however, that the quality of grains and seeds may indeed be good from most suppliers. But there’s more to it than that. I could mix high-quality grains and seeds incorrectly 100 times and still get poor results.
The Start
Before breeding begins, it is important to have the pigeons checked by a good avian veterinarian. If anything is wrong, you still have enough time to intervene. Keep in mind that antibiotics not only kill harmful bacteria but also the beneficial ones. Therefore, it is wise to do a seven-day detox cure after each use of antibiotics and also provide probiotics to restore the good bacteria. This helps the pigeons regain optimal condition.
Condition also depends on the environment. In cold, dreary winter weather, it is difficult for pigeons to reach top condition. In such cases, supplemental lighting and proper humidity in the loft may help. Supplemental lighting should be done gradually and as naturally as possible, increasing daylight slowly. A regular lamp may suffice, but if the loft receives very little sunlight, it is best to use high-frequency fixtures and daylight lamps that emit UV radiation for the pigeons.
To stimulate pairing, we can provide pigeons with vitamin E. I prefer natural sources of vitamin E, such as wheat germ oil and selenium. Additionally, it is wise to continue giving cod liver oil or fish oil for vitamins A and D³, as well as a good mineral mix for eggshell formation and healthy bones and feathers in the young. Once the pigeons are on eggs, it is important to switch back to the winter-rest feed. The pigeons are doing nothing other than sitting on the eggs or resting in the loft. A good winter mix contains many fibers and little protein — they do not need protein at this stage, as it would only make them fat. Once the eggs hatch, you can continue feeding this winter mix for the first four days, as crop milk is produced through the pigeons’ hormonal activity.
Which Breeding Feed?
The higher the temperature, the less corn breeders will eat. This raises the question of how important corn really is in breeding feed. You certainly don’t need it for raising young pigeons. In many breeding mixes, there is, in my opinion, too much corn. This lowers the price of the feed, but the pigeons often discard it anyway. Nonsense. For raising young pigeons, protein is the most important factor, as it promotes growth.
Digestible Protein
This is still a confusing concept for many enthusiasts. “If it contains a lot of peas, it must be good feed, right?” Peas and legumes, however, have a low biological value, and a large portion is merely filler. Often, only the crude protein is listed on the bag. The term “digestible protein” rarely appears in brochures. I studied this extensively and will explain its impact on feeding amounts.
Let’s assume most pigeons eat 30–35 grams of feed per day. A breeding pigeon is in a performance phase and needs 2.2 grams of digestible protein daily, according to scientists. Let’s calculate using three practical breeding mixes:
| Mix | Crude Protein | Digestible Protein | Required Feed (g) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 14% | 60% = 8.4 g | 26.2 |
| 2 | 15% | 50% = 7.5 g | 29.6 |
| 3 | 18% | 34% = 6 g | 36.7 |
For Mix 1, the pigeon only needs 26 grams of feed to meet its protein requirements. Giving more leads to protein surplus. Enthusiasts tend to give more feed out of habit, but too much is never good. It can cause metabolic issues, excess ammonia production, and stop feather molting. Pigeons may then eat redstone, soil, or parts of the loft — so monitor feed closely.
Mix 2 provides a good balance with 30 grams of feed. Digestible protein intake is sufficient, with no deficiencies or excesses, reducing organ stress and improving loft conditions due to less ammonia production.
Mix 3 has a high crude protein content of 18%, but only 6% is digestible. Pigeons would need 37 grams of feed — 25% more than Mix 2 — to meet protein needs. Often, excess peas and corn are also present, leading to wasted feed under the grids.
It’s also important to note that sufficient protein does not automatically mean everything is perfect. Most breeding mixes lack adequate lysine and methionine, the key amino acids for pigeons. These can be added to feed granules, or with proper formulation, the exact amounts can be achieved. This allows much less feed to be given — up to 10–20% less than normal breeding mixes, and even 42.8% less than the cheap mix in the table.
Weaned Young Pigeons
If young pigeons have experienced deficiencies, this will affect the rest of their development. Ensure they get everything they need. After weaning, continue feeding the breeding mix for 14 days. Gradually replace part of it with “Purification” feed until it reaches 50% of the mix. The breeding portion can also be substituted with a good flying mix (50%) or a quality young pigeon mix. Pigeons can train around the loft on a half-flying, half-purification mix.
Are the Young Pigeons Darkened?
Darkening triggers feather replacement on the head and neck, while wing feathers molt later. This can be seen as a minor molt, requiring protein to grow new feathers. Feed darkened pigeons a good molting mix or breeding mix plus 10% barley or purification. They usually don’t want to train and sit together in the loft — don’t worry; flying during molt is uncomfortable for pigeons. Once they are smooth and glossy, they will start flying in groups — a sign to gradually reduce feed. This usually happens when the young pigeons are 10–12 weeks old. How to prepare them for the next phase will be covered in the next issue.
Kind regards,
Willem Mulder
Tel: +31 648 717475
E-mail: matador@xs4all.nl